It started with a tart. Sweet pastry with notes of cinnamon
and caramelised apple, amongst chocolate roulades, fresh fruit and meringue
towers it looked plain, ordinary. Whilst deciding between arrays of whipped
cream, glazed fruit and rich tortes; the ordinary by contrast looked
extraordinary. I ordered the tart: warm, no cream and water, settled down book
in hand. Warm sugar filling the air, smell of buttery pastry deserved to be
savoured. Alas, the smell was better
than the taste. Caramelised apples are in fact charred, leaving a bitter taste,
pastry so-so but the filling sloppy and resembling baby food. So, one Friday
afternoon in January, with a heavy heart and clouded head, in a faux-French
patisserie I sat down at a table with plates of half eaten sandwiches and
discovered disappointment. This was the start. It started with a tart.
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